There we go, it’s started, and it’s today! Yes, it won’t be the carnival as we know it, but until 2 days ago, we weren’t supposed to have any at all… But why is it so important? Simply because carnival is an integral part of our culture, and we won’t give it up !

I should have written this article more than a month ago. I should have talked to you about the Martinican Carnival at length, make you discover and rediscover it. To fill the wait for the Jours Gras by tickling the memories of each and every one of you. But how can you talk about something you love with enthusiasm when until the day before, it was said that you would be deprived of it…

Yes, the Carnival 2022 will take place, but it only concerns the Jours Gras. We have already missed all the events leading up to it, and that cannot be made up for. I am talking about events such as the election of Queens and Mini-Queens (some cities have maintained it, but online…), elections of Miss Lycée, the vidés, the parades such as the Foyal Parade or the Bèt à Fé. But also the preparations before the Jours Gras: the meetings between girlfriends to make the outfit for groups, but also for children according to the instructions given by the school. The rehearsals of walking groups, and the wait for the news item that will arouse the acerbic imagination of the songwriters … Yes, for the second year in a row, we missed out on those moments that make up our culture.

No matter, the Jours Gras are here, and we will enjoy them as they should be!

The 2022 edition in Fort-de-France

Traditionally, the Jours Gras of the Carnival take place in Fort-de-France on Sunday, Tuesday, and Wednesday. Monday is reserved for the Carnival in the South.

After multiple exchanges between the city hall, its partners, and the walking groups, the downtown route has been chosen, with some modifications: • The parades will take place until 7 p.m. • The city center will be closed from 1 p.m., with restrictions on motor vehicles, except for members of the bwadjak associations • 11 entry points with the usual control of the public, plus temperature control • No sound trucks • Autotests are recommended for carnival-goers

We just have to see if we’ll have the chance to catch a glimpse of Vaval this year…

“Jours Gras, each day has its theme

Saturday and Sunday are free days, with the Reines and Mini-Reines elected on Saturday. Sunday is the big day for the master of ceremonies: Vaval!

Monday is the day of the burlesque wedding where men dress up as women and women dress up as men.

Mardi Gras is the day for the Red Devils,, a day of a red wave throughout the city. Mardi Gras also starts very early with the pyjama vidés, parades that begin at 4:30 a.m. and invite residents to join in wearing nightshirts or pyjamas.

Ash Wednesday is a day of mourning, in black and white, and the day for the funeral celebrations of Vaval. At the end of the day, the effigy of Vaval is burned on the seashore amid the cries and lamentations of the public…

The origins of our Carnival

They are diverse and mainly linked to the Christian religion. Thus, our Carnival obviously originates from the colonial era. Imported from Europe, “Mardi Gras” was introduced by the Catholic Church, the day before Ash Wednesday and the beginning of Lent. Lent is a time for reflection and fasting before Easter. Mardi Gras is therefore a day of celebration, public balls, costumes, and the last day when one can eat “fat”. By the way, did you know? The word “carnival” comes from a Latin word “carnelevare” formed from “carne” meaning “meat” and “levare” meaning “to remove”. It therefore literally means “to remove meat”. Thus, from the beginning, Carnival has always been synonymous with celebrations and costumes. The slaves of that time reproduced the carnival of the masters by bringing their traditions and instruments.

The Martinican Carnival has evolved over time and has taken shape: thus, emblematic characters such as Mariann La Po Fig and Nèg GwoSiwo were born… imported instruments were replaced by local percussion instruments: drums, ti bwa, and conques de lambis, ironic songs were introduced. In the 19th century, popular parades and processions were organized in the city of Saint-Pierre, then the capital of Martinique until the eruption of Mount Pelée in 1902. Subsequently, the carnival resumed in Fort-de-France where it has remained ever since !

Some Characters of the Carnival

How to talk about Carnival without mentioning Vaval, the king of Carnival with a fateful destiny… His Majesty Vaval is a giant puppet at the head of the parade. Each year, he represents a current event, a societal issue, a political matter or a news topic. He is prepared in the greatest secrecy by the artistic services and associations of the city of Fort-de-France and appears on Fat Sunday alongside his court composed of mini-Queens (girls from 5 to 12 years old) and queen-mothers (women over 60 years old). During all the days of Carnival, he is honored until Ash Wednesday when he is incinerated on the Malecon, the seafront of Fort-de-France, under the eyes and tears of his widows.

Indeed Guiablesse is the grieving widow of King Vaval. She only appears on Ash Wednesday dressed in black and white, coming to mourn Vaval all day long, who will be incinerated.

2nd emblematic character, is the Red Devil, who comes directly from Africa and is celebrated on Mardi Gras. Dressed all in red, the costume features mirrors and a bull’s head, a mask adorned with mirrors and several horns, and only showing the eyes. “abi abi abi kay manman mi djab-la déwo!”

The Nèg Gwo Siwo symbolize the slaves. They are becoming increasingly popular, and you won’t be able to miss them. Covered in a mixture of cane syrup and charcoal, they scare away the crowds they try to rub against.

The men and women made of clay who cover their bodies with clay and stop their silent walk to look like statues.

Maryan Lapo fig, her costume is made of dried banana leaves that she twirls. The story goes that she was born to replace the bear Marianne, who escaped from a circus in Saint-Pierre in the 19th century. Note that “fig” is the name of a banana.

What would Carnival be without its walking groups ? The true hearts of the Martinique parade, they are “street orchestras” equipped mostly with percussion instruments: ti-bwa (a piece of bamboo on which tac tic tac tac is played), chacha (dried gourd filled with seeds), tom, bass, barrel (percussion instruments or skin recovery, on which padded fabric mallets hit). The groups parade followed by the crowd who sing carnival songs. Do not hesitate to join them.

Finally, do not forget the bwajacks, these old cars refurbished, colored, carrying a good dozen people in front, behind, on the roof when there is one left. They are almost all rigged to backfire. And the themed floats : decorations mounted on trucks, they transport themed groups such as Brazilian dancers, for example; most of them are sound-equipped, followed by the vidés where young people have fun.

The Martinican Carnival is a popular carnival

Each island has its own Carnival, but being chauvinistic, let’s be so to the end: ours is unique! Unlike other islands where Carnival is rather a parade of groups watched by judges and the public, the Martinican Carnival is a popular carnival. Everyone participates in it,

it is the expression of the people. It is a means of letting off steam and mocking the hypocrisy of everyday life that it denounces.

Everyone is disguised, from the walking groups to the audience, so if you spot someone dressed normally, they’re a tourist. By “disguised,” I mean costumes like “rad kaban” or “carnival clothes” pulled out from under the bed, and all the accessories: tights, leg warmers, feathers, and boas. Everything is allowed and without restraint. In recent years, more and more small groups of friends or family have organized in advance to create themes: flower girls, playing cards, pirates, seafood, or TV characters. To the great pleasure of professional and amateur photographers.

Finally, the Martinican Carnival would be nothing without its carnival songs, the ultimate means of derision. They reflect current events, and every year carnival-goers compete in creativity by imagining refrains inspired by news or social events that are in the spotlight. This tradition is not new; it already made people happy at the Saint-Pierre carnival, where songs mixed with sarcasm about those in power were already sung.

It should also be noted that the festivities continue outside the streets in various Carnival parties. There are more than a dozen per night for the Jours Gras alone.