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In the north of Martinique, Mount Pelée proudly stands. Both a blessing for nature and a potential danger for mankind, the famous volcano remains an unavoidable symbol of the island.

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Why Mount Pelee ?

You’re probably thinking, “but what a strange name for a volcano”. Why peeled? Opinions differ on the origin of this name.

It was thought for a long time that at the time of the colonization of Martinique a previous eruption had destroyed the vegetation of the mountain giving it its bare, bald, “peeled” appearance.

Others, finally, suppose that we must look for more distant origins. Indeed, the ancient occupants of the island, the Caribbean Indians, venerated the mountain as the goddess of fire named Pele, who could cause eruptions and earthquakes. Which hypothesis is the right one? The mystery remains. It’s up to everyone to make up their own mind about it.

Mount Pelee, the highest point of Martinique

Mount Pelee is also and above all the highest peak of the island. It can be seen from afar. From a geological point of view, Martinique is composed of two volcanic mountains: the Pitons du Carbet in the center, whose peaks reach 100 meters, and the Montagne Pelée in the north, whose altitude is 1395 m for an area of 120 square kilometers.

The volcanic activity of Mount Pelee began about 500,000 years ago, while the Pitons du Carbet volcano ceased its activity about 320,000 years ago. Composed of layers of volcanic ash and lava, Montagne Pelée was formed by the activity of another volcano further north, Mont Conil, which operated at the same time as the Pitons du Carbet volcano.

Note that in 1902, Mount Pelee was at a higher altitude than it is today. The explosion of its summit during the eruption has considerably reduced its height.

The role of Mount Pelée in the biodiversity of Martinique

A large part of Martinique’s territory is among the most unique in the world for its biodiversity, its geology and its endemic species. The volcanic areas of Martinique, Montagne Pelée and Pitons du Carbet, are classified as Biological Integral Reserve. This means that these territories are left in their natural state so that the fauna and flora can flourish without constraints. Any exploitation is forbidden, the spaces of the Montagne Pelée in Martinique are completely protected. Within this 15,000 hectare area is the most diversified and best preserved forest continuum of the Lesser Antilles.

Depuis les côtes jusqu’aux sommets de la montagne Pelée, on peut observer des forêts humides d’une grande ancienneté, d’une telle variété qu’elles renferment 90 % des espèces d’arbres présents dans les petites Antilles. These spaces contain an exceptional fauna and flora, with a large number of endemic species of the Caribbean region. Des espèces qui, si elles ne sont pas protégées, risquent de disparaître totalement de la surface du globe.

In July 2019, the volcanoes and forests of Montagne Pelée and the Pitons du Carbet were awarded the national label Forêt d’Exception. The application for the UNESCO World Heritage Site is to be examined in July 2022. In terms of geology for its volcanoes, and for its biodiversity gathering a unique fauna and flora. A consecration that would allow, once adopted, to protect the site of Mount Pelee as a common heritage of humanity, because of its unique features in the world.

Some itineraries for hiking on Mount Pelee

There are several hiking trails on Mount Pelee in Martinique, each offering a unique experience and stunning views of the island. Here are some popular trails:

The trail from the Aileron parking lot

Climbing Mount Pelee via the Aileron: This medium level hiking trail will take you to the top of Mount Pelee (the Chinois) via one of its steepest sides, known as the Aileron. The hike lasts about 4 hours round trip and includes steep and rocky passages through the Caldera, the elevation gain is 600 meters and the distance to cover is 4.7 km. It offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the island.

The trail of Morne Macouba

This moderate level trail will lead you through the rainforest and agricultural operations such as Banana and Sugar Cane plantations and will offer you superb views of the Macouba valley and the east coast of the island. The hike lasts about 4 hours starting from Désiles. The difference in altitude is 1220 meters and the distance to cover is 8 km.

The Grande Savane trail

Climbing Mount Pelee via Grande Savane: This medium level hike will take you to the top of Mount Pelee via Grande Savane, a lush valley on the side of the mountain. The hike lasts about 2 hours round trip and includes passages along the ridges. The elevation gain is 470 meters and the distance to cover is 1.5 km. This trail will offer you a magnificent view of Saint Pierre.

It is important to note that these trails can be difficult and require good physical condition. It is recommended that you prepare yourself properly and follow the national parks’ safety guidelines.

It is possible to hike on Mount Pelee in the rain, but it is important to exercise caution and follow national park safety guidelines. Rain can make hiking trails slippery and difficult, especially if the rainfall is heavy and sustained.

If you plan to hike Mount Pelee in the rain, it is recommended that you check the weather conditions before you go.

The eruption of May 8, 1902, and the destruction of Saint Pierre

The devastating and deadly eruption of 1902 was preceded by warning signs. There had been two previous eruptions in the 18th and 19th centuries.

The first alert occurred in 1792, and did not worry the islanders much. The eruption was limited to some explosions at the top of the volcano.

The second in 1851 is preceded by several months of emission of smoke, but the explosions are more violent than in 1792. The municipalities of Saint Pierre, du Prêcheur, and du Morne Rouge are affected by fallout of volcanic ash. The smoke continued for several months after the eruption. But the steam plumes resumed in 1889, with activity increasing until 1902. It was not until April 23, 1902 that the first explosion occurred, quickly followed by many others, resulting in significant ashfall. It is now known that magma had accumulated, blocking the crater, thus creating an accumulation of gas.

For the inhabitants, May 2, 1902 already forebodes the worst with a rain of volcanic ash, an intensification of fumaroles, as well as hot mud flows. To the point that many consulates decide to stop their activities, evacuating their personnel from the island. Several captains decide to raise anchor to leave the island as quickly as possible, where they feel in danger.

The next day, Saturday, May 3rd, the west side of Mount Pelée was now entirely covered in a layer of white ash. The authorities of the time tried to reassure the panicked inhabitants of Saint Pierre. On Monday, May 5th, the lake that was at the top of the volcano spilled into the White River Valley, engulfing the Guérin distillery in its path. In this tragedy, the first 23 victims of the volcanic eruption perished. The volcano entered a phase of pyrotechnic activity, with projections of incandescent lava, and a new fumarole in the heights of Saint Pierre.

Startling reports say that waves of vermin such as rats, snakes, spiders, centipedes, and ants had fled en masse, sensing an imminent danger, invading the streets of Saint Pierre and creating the greatest terror among the inhabitants. On May 8th, the volcano was shaken by a violent explosion at its summit. The gas held back by this magma plug exploded a flank of the mountain, releasing what is known as a “Peléean glowing cloud”, a 190-meter-high cloud composed of ash, debris, and gas with a temperature of 200° to 250°C, and moving at a speed of 150 meters per second.

This cloud is destructive and leaves no chance for the inhabitants killed by the debris, burned or suffocated by the ashes and burning gases. 28,000 to 30,000 people were killed on the spot. Ships at anchor suffer the same fate, their wrecks now delight divers. But the volcano’s anger does not stop there. No less than 7 glowing clouds like this one will sweep the city of Saint Pierre until August 30, 1902. Volcanic activity continued until 1905.

This eruption of Mount Pelée gave the name to this type of eruption: the Peléan type which characterizes a lava dome volcano and lateral explosion, with glowing clouds.