The vegetables of Martinique

History of agriculture in Martinique

Agriculture has always been at the center of Martinique’s history. It is for the wealth resulting from its fertile soil that the island was the object of struggles between the various colonial powers of the time.

The plantation economy, and therefore slavery, was the norm for centuries. Nature is rich in Martinique and the Creole garden has allowed the Martinican people to feed themselves through the centuries.

But many factors come into play such as rainfall, the rugged territory with areas that are not very accessible with steep slopes. There is a dry Martinique and a wet Martinique. The Antilles, at the time of their colonization, belonged to the manioc zone.

Yams, potatoes, caribbean cabbage, cotton, pineapple were cultivated there. The newcomers adapted to this way of eating and passed it on to the slaves who came from Africa. The constant wars quickly imposed the necessity to tend towards food self-sufficiency.

From the beginning, the owners of the houses were obliged to maintain food crops to feed the inhabitants.

In 1848, when slavery was abolished, the freed slaves had no desire to return to work for their former masters, so they left the houses to settle in the hills.

This is how a food-producing country was created, distinct from the dwellings and formed by a multitude of small farms of less than one hectare. It is a type of family farming with a Creole garden and a hut in the center.

The clearing of new land is done with the help of neighbors and friends. It is the “lasotè”, the men in a row plow the soil in rhythm with songs and music.

Today, fruit and vegetable production covers only 40% of consumption. The number of farms is declining, and agriculture accounts for 22% of jobs in the primary and secondary sectors. Agriculture is struggling to meet local demand and 77% of products are imported.

The main vegetables of Martinique

The market stalls of Martinique are full of colorful and tasty vegetables.

Sweet potato

The sweet potato is native to Central America and enjoys tropical climates. It was already consumed by the first Arawak inhabitants before the arrival of the Europeans who in turn perpetuated this culture.

This creeping perennial plant can reach several meters in length and produces tubers in the shape of an elongated potato. The sweet potato takes different shapes and colors, its taste is delicately sweet.

The sweet potato is eaten boiled or roasted, and can also be used in sweet dishes such as cakes or jam. In Martinique, this peyi vegetable is very much used in the Creole cuisine.

Christophine

The christophine is a fruit that is eaten as a vegetable. Native to Mexico, it is a perennial plant consumed in tropical countries. The name is a tribute to Christopher Columbus, but it is called chayote in France.

The fruit is a large pale green berry shaped like a pear. The pulp of the fruit is white and fibrous. Very rich in water (christophine is 90% water), it is a low-calorie vegetable that could be compared to zucchini.

In Martinique, christophine is eaten in the form of gratins, but it is also used for its medicinal properties. It is said to have the property of curing burns, as well as healing properties. It is a vegetable very rich in vitamin C.

Okra

Okra is a large perennial plant that produces a fruit up to 25 cm long. The plant is cultivated throughout Africa and was introduced to the West Indies by slaves. It was used during the crossing to prevent scurvy.

The okra is known and consumed since the antiquity where it was consumed by the Egyptians. Nowadays, it is a very popular vegetable in Mediterranean and African cuisine.

When cooked, okra becomes sticky, its high fiber content helps to prevent constipation. Okra seeds are used to treat fever.

Okra can be eaten raw or cooked, it goes very well with tomatoes, onions, yams. It can be used to thicken soups. In Martinique, the okra is consumed cooked majority, it enters the recipe of calalou antillais.

Yam

The yam is grown in tropical regions for its tuber. We call yam both the tuber and the root vegetable itself. It is a plant very present in Africa, and would have arrived in the West Indies with the first slaves.

The yam is eaten cooked or braised, the taste is floury and starchy like the potato. Richer in proteins than manioc, yam is low in fat and rich in B vitamins. The flesh is generally white.

The yam is very used in the Martinique cuisine, where it is consumed very regularly. Initially considered as “food for slaves”, it was neglected by the colonists who preferred potatoes imported from Europe.

Gradually, the yam went from being a poor man’s food to an ingredient that accompanies festive meals. Consumed in particular in gratin, yam is cultivated locally to meet the needs of the Martinican population.

Cassava

Cassava is a species of perennial plant native to South America that is widely cultivated in tropical regions. Its starch-rich root is consumed. Both the plant and its root are called cassava. Flour is also produced from its root.

Cassava was used by the Amerindian populations and was discovered by the Portuguese around 1500. There are sweet cassava and bitter cassava, only the first one can be consumed as a vegetable.

The tuber has a white flesh and is eaten like a vegetable, boiled in salted water after being peeled. It is the cassava flour that is used to produce the cassave, a Martinique pancake. Cassava is consumed in Martinique in the form of flour, in particular to make the fierce avocado. But it can also be used to make ice cream and pastries.

Massissi, or West Indian cucumber

Climbing plant native to Africa, it was introduced to the West Indies by slaves, especially those from present-day Angola. The fruits are green and oval, spiky but not prickly. The West Indian cucumber is refreshing, it is eaten in vinaigrette, but it can also be cooked.

Pigeon pea

The pigeon pea is another vegetable that arrived in the West Indies with the slaves from Africa. It is now widespread throughout the Caribbean. Pigeon peas contain a high level of protein and when combined with cereals, they contribute to a balanced diet. In Martinique, it was planted for Christmas meals with yams. It is eaten cooked, usually in the form of soup.

The leaves of the shrub can be used to make decoctions for mouthwash, and to treat toothache. Today, the pigeon pea is widely consumed throughout the Caribbean.

Chinese cabbage (dachine)

Cultivated in Africa and Asia for more than 2000 years, the Chinese cabbage is an elongated and rounded tuber whose appearance is reminiscent of celery root. It is dark on the outside and has white flesh. Cooked in salted water, dachine is often used to accompany meat and fish.

It can also be prepared as a purée or in a gratin. In Martinique, Chinese cabbage is mainly grown in Morne Rouge where it is renowned for its quality.

Jerusalem artichoke

Jerusalem artichoke is a perennial plant in the same family as the sunflower. The plant produces an edible tuber resembling a potato.

Originally from North America, it was known by the Arawak Indians. Discovered by the French explorer Samuel de Champlain in 1603, it was very important for the survival of the native populations, who made it a sign of peace. The Jerusalem artichoke is eaten both raw and cooked, it is a vegetable very rich in vitamins and low in calories.

In Martinique, it is mainly used as an accompaniment to meats or fish.

Breadfruit

Breadfruit is a starch considered as one of the peyi vegetables in Martinique. It is used as an accompaniment to meat and fish.

It is a very energetic food, rich in calories. After removing the thick rind, the heart is removed and the white part is cut into thick pieces. It is consumed after cooking it in salted water cut into pieces. It can also be fried. It can also be used to make sweet cakes.

Giraumon

The giraumon is a variety of pumpkin with a firm flesh, both mealy and sweet. The name comes from the Caribbean Indians who cultivated the vegetable when the colonists arrived. It is attested as early as 1614 under the form giromon.

The flesh of the giraumon is both firm, sweet and floury. The giraumon is cooked in many ways, in gratin, flan, jam, but also raw and grated

The creole garden

The Creole garden is designed with the objective of achieving food self-sufficiency. It is characterized by a great diversity of plant species. Root crops, legumes, as well as aromatic and medicinal plants.

More and more ornamental plants are found in Creole gardens, they serve to keep pests away.