Cocoa and Martinique: Rediscovery of an Ancestral Passion

History of Cocoa

The cacao tree is a plant that produces seeds known as cocoa beans. Cocoa is produced from the roasting of these beans. The cacao tree grows in tropical areas, particularly in South America.

The cultivation of cocoa was known to Mesoamerican civilizations (Aztecs, Mayas), who used cocoa for food, as well as in rituals and economic activities. Indeed, the Maya held a true cult for the cacao tree, and cocoa beans were also used as currency.

The Aztecs made a beverage from cocoa called "Xocoalt," which is believed to have later given rise to the name chocolate. Both civilizations attributed medicinal properties to cocoa, especially for soothing stomach burns.

When Christopher Columbus came into contact with the Aztecs in 1502, they gave him cocoa beans and a bowl of the traditional beverage. Later, Hernan Cortés, informed about the recipe for Aztec chocolate, introduced it to Spain.

The reception of the chocolate drink by the Spanish population was initially mixed. It was only once adapted to local tastes (served hot, sweetened, and with biscuits for dipping) that chocolate truly became a fashionable beverage.

Origin and History of Cocoa in the Caribbean

There are two hypotheses regarding the arrival of cocoa in Martinique. The first claims that the cacao tree is an indigenous species, meaning it naturally exists on the island. According to this version, the first cacao trees were discovered in 1655 in a forest in Martinique. Another hypothesis attributes the introduction of cocoa to the island to a Jewish merchant, Benjamin da Costa d’Andrade. He is said to have brought plans from Venezuela obtained from the indigenous people.

In 1684, the first regular cocoa plantation was established, creating an opportunity for settlers who could not afford to engage in the more expensive sugar cane production. Moreover, cocoa cultivation proved well-suited to the humid parts of the island, unlike sugar cane cultivation. The French developed a taste for chocolate, providing a natural market for Martinican production.

However, in 1727, a violent cyclone brought an end to this initially promising experience. With cocoa plantations destroyed, settlers turned to the newcomer: coffee. While cocoa cultivation persisted, it never fully recovered and remained at an artisanal level. Cocoa farming is costly and challenging, as it involves a delicate product with high transportation and processing costs.

Moreover, cocoa proved to be less profitable commercially. In France, there was low demand for cocoa, while demand was high for other colonial commodities like cotton, sugar, and tobacco. This resulted in modest sales, coupled with high taxes.

This explains the long eclipse of cocoa cultivation in Martinique, which nonetheless persists in a residual manner.

The Renaissance of Cocoa in Martinique

Similar to coffee, Martinican cocoa had nearly vanished from the landscape, despite a significant expansion in the 18th century. However, for the past decade, cocoa has experienced a revival in Martinique. Thanks to the efforts of an association, the island has gone from a small number of producers to more than forty.

Valcaco is an association established in 2015, bringing together producers, processors, and other stakeholders in the industry, working to reconnect Martinique with its cocoa history. The association's member producers practice pesticide-free agriculture, and the harvests are done by hand. In 2020, the total production amounted to 2.5 tons over a cultivation area of 75 hectares.

Even though Martinican cocoa is internationally recognized, the primary purpose of production is to supply the local market.

Cocoa Cultivation in Martinique

The cultivation of the cacao tree is particularly well-suited to the Martinican climate. The tree thrives in the humid areas inland and naturally grows under the canopy of shaded forests.

The cacao tree begins to produce three to five years after planting. The flowers are pollinated by insects, leading to the production of fruits known as pods.

Each pod can contain several dozen beans (usually around forty), which are then dried and roasted. All stages of processing are done locally, resulting in 100% Martinican cocoa.

Antillean Specialties Based on Cocoa

The cocoa stick, or "gwo kako," is used in the preparation of the first communion chocolate. It consists of dried and roasted cocoa beans. The beans, rid of their husk, are crushed to obtain an oily paste. This paste is then rolled to give it the shape of a small stick.

Antillean hot chocolate is a true institution in Martinique, traditionally associated with religious celebrations, especially the first communion. To make it, a cocoa stick is grated into a mixture of hot milk enhanced with cinnamon, lime, a bit of grated nutmeg, and a vanilla pod.

Martinican Companies Transforming Cocoa into Chocolate

Chocolat Elot is well-known to all Martinicans. Established in the early 20th century, the company has produced chocolate bars widely known to both young and old Martinicans. Made with natural ingredients, local brown sugar, vanilla, and a portion of beans produced in Martinique, Chocolat Elot has retained the same recipe since its inception.

More than a century later, the success remains intact, and Chocolat Elot continues to delight the people of Martinique. It is Chocolat Elot that is used to make Antillean hot chocolate if one does not have a cocoa stick. The company, located in Le Lamentin, regularly welcomes visitors, allowing them to explore this monument of Martinican gastronomic heritage.

Today, the brand has diversified its product range while maintaining its image among Martinicans.

The Lauzea brothers are true ambassadors of Martinican chocolate. These artisan chocolatiers produce handmade chocolates that incorporate spices, fruits, and vegetables from the Antillean tradition. Thus, chocolate blends with exotic flavors such as guava, soursop, sweet pepper, rum, or colombo.