What would Creole cuisine be without its spices? They color the stands of the Martinican markets and enhance dishes with their delicate aromas. Spices are an integral part of Caribbean gastronomy, drawing their roots notably from African and Indian cultures.
Spices at the origin of the European colonization of the West Indies
Spices are intrinsically linked to the history of Martinique. Indeed, it is by wanting to find another route to bring back spices from India that Christopher Columbus embarked on his journey that would lead him to the Americas.
In those days, spices were literally worth their weight in gold, and several civilizations competed for control of the routes that led to this wealth. It was the search for this luxury commodity that led the explorer to the shores of Martinique.
Hundreds of years later, spices are an essential part of the daily life of the Martinican people.
What is a spice?
First of all, we need to define what a spice is, and you will see that it is not as obvious as it seems. The definition of a spice is often confused with that of an aromatic herb or condiment. Originally, a spice is an aromatic substance of plant origin used for seasoning. A spice can be of animal origin and its use varies from cooking to medicine, through perfumery.
Aromatic herbs are plants generally used fresh in culinary preparations. Conversely, condiments are made with spices and herbs but may contain other foods such as vegetables or flour.
Nevertheless, these distinctions are sometimes blurred. For example, a pepper is a vegetable when eaten fresh, while it is a spice when ground into a powder.
Mustard is considered a spice while the preparation of its seeds, also called mustard, is considered a condiment. Pepper, a spice, is a condiment when used to season dishes. In short, a real headache!
There are many definitions, but none of them can really decide on this notion. At the global level, the FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations) has established a classification that recognizes nine varieties of spices.
Among which we find: pepper, peppers, vanilla, cinnamon, cloves, fennel, ginger, and finally the NDA spices (not defined elsewhere) such as bay leaves, saffron, thyme and turmeric.
It should be noted that spices were used for therapeutic applications until the 18th century. And more precisely as “medicines for the rich”.
They became common with the discovery of the new world and lost their value as they became accessible to the people. Strangely enough, the medicinal virtues of spices seem to have been forgotten nowadays, even if they are coming back into fashion with the rediscovery of the Creole garden.
The different spices used in Martinican cuisine.
Cinnamon
Cinnamon comes from the inner bark of the cinnamon tree, native to eastern India, whose parts are aromatic (flowers, fruits). There are many varieties of cinnamon, but the best known is that of Ceylon.
Cinnamon was introduced to the West Indies in the 19th century, and in Martinique it is often called cinnamon wood. Cinnamon can be found in recipes for Creole pastries and sweets, and in arranged rums. Cinnamon is part of the four-spice blend and is used in curry recipes.
Cinnamon is also at the heart of traditions, and is used to make communion chocolate, a must for children’s communion. Then by extension of all the traditional festivals, including religious.
Cinnamon is known to have many medicinal virtues, effective against bacteria, fungus, it is also used to treat digestive disorders. It is also a powerful antioxidant.
Star anise
Fruit of a tree native to China, the badanier, its name of star anise comes from the shape of the fruit with its eight star-shaped branches and its aniseed scent.
This spice is used as much for its therapeutic virtues as for the preparation of herbal teas and aniseed-flavored aperitifs. Badian was introduced in Europe by Marco Polo in the 13th century. Rare and expensive spice in the Middle Ages, its use spreads from the Renaissance under the English influence. In Martinique, star anise is used to make Christmas punch and pastries. One lends to the star anise of the diuretic virtues.
Cumin
Cumin is a plant native to the East and belongs to the same family as parsley. Already used by the ancient Egyptians for its medicinal virtues, cumin has had different uses throughout history, even being used as currency in the Middle Ages.
Known to be the spice of the rich, cumin was associated with avarice. Cumin is widely used in culinary specialties around the world, such as massala in India, curry or chili. In the West Indies, it is an essential ingredient in Creole cuisine, for example in chicken colombo.
Indian wood
It is the queen spice of Creole cuisine, the Indian wood, also called West Indian laurel, or “allspice”, comes from a shrub that grows throughout the Caribbean basin.
The leaves and berries are used as spices in cooking. The leaves contain an essential oil that is widely used for its therapeutic properties, but also for perfumery and cosmetology.
Very used in the Martinique cuisine, the Bois d’Inde is used in the composition of marinades of meats, fish, also in the short broth of fish. But that’s not all, it is used in pastries and to flavour certain rums.
The medicinal applications of Indian wood are numerous and recognized.
Colombo
Colombo is a mixture of spices that is used a lot in West Indian cuisine, especially to make the delicious chicken Colombo. Similar to curry by its color, colombo arrived in the West Indies in the 19th century in the luggage of Indian immigrants. It will never leave the West Indian kitchen since then.
The West Indian colombo differs from the original Sri Lankan version, and it can also be said that there are as many ways to make colombo in Martinique as there are families. The base, however, remains more or less the same and includes turmeric, cumin, hot pepper, coriander, garlic, fenugreek, cloves, and mustard seeds.
Some of the spices may be roasted or toasted. In addition to the traditional chicken or pork colombo, there are many recipes in Creole cuisine where this spice blend can be used.
Because of the spices that make up colombo, there are many health benefits. Notably known to improve digestion.
Chilli
The pepper is intrinsically linked to the culture of the West Indies. The West Indian chilli pepper or Bondamanjak is one of the strongest in the world. Round in appearance and yellow, orange or red in color, it is used to spice up or flavor dishes. Be careful with this pepper, even if you are used to eating spicy food.
In Martinique, we also use a lot the vegetarian pepper (or sweet pepper). Very used in the West Indian cuisine, the chili pepper is part of the composition of many dishes such as codfish accras, the fierce avocado or even the court bouillon.
It is used chopped, or even rubbed on food. It should be handled with care to avoid burns to hands or eyes.
Chilli pepper is very much used in traditional medicine, it reduces the risk of cardiovascular mortality, and would improve longevity. Among fruits and vegetables, it is the chili pepper that contains the most vitamin A, moreover it is an important source of vitamin C, magnesium and iron.
Four spices
The four spice is a mixture of cinnamon, ginger, cloves and nutmeg. The four-spice mixture is widely used in Caribbean cuisine, in both sweet and savory dishes. It can be found in pork stew.
Originally the four spice designated the Indian wood because once crushed it gave off aromas of ginger, clove, nutmeg and pepper. At present, it is a term that designates the mixture of these four spices. We find the four spices in cold cuts, stews and sauces.
Vanilla
Vanilla is a spice derived from certain varieties of tropical orchids. The vanilla bean is a black and slightly shiny stick. Vanilla originally comes from Mexico and was already used by the Aztecs in combination with cocoa.
It was the Spanish who discovered vanilla during the conquest of the Americas. Vanilla is used in many desserts, ice creams or hot drinks. In Martinique, it is used to make arranged rums. Vanilla is said to have aphrodisiac properties.
Ginger
Ginger is a tropical perennial plant native to India. It was one of the first oriental spices to reach Europe, and is already found in medieval medical treatises. In Martinique this plant is cultivated since the beginning of the French colonization.
Ginger is known for its aphrodisiac virtues, but also for its numerous medicinal properties. Anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, it has a stimulating action on the immune system. Regular consumption of ginger could have a positive effect on cholesterol. Ginger is consumed fresh, grated or sliced, or dried and ground.
In Martinique ginger is used to make delicious jam, and to make herbal teas and infusions.
Turmeric
Native to the Indian subcontinent, turmeric is used throughout the world for its culinary and medicinal properties. In the West Indies, turmeric arrived with the Indian immigrants who came to work in the plantations at the end of slavery.
Main ingredient of curry and carry, turmeric is consumed dry or in powder. Fresh turmeric can be found on the market stalls of Martinique. From a culinary point of view, it is mainly used for cooking meat and fish, as well as for sauces.
Turmeric has been used in traditional medicine since ancient times, particularly for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Numerous researches are carried out on the properties of this plant in the prevention of cancers.
Nutmeg
Nutmeg is the fruit of the nutmeg tree, which is native to Indonesia, more precisely to the Molucca archipelago. This spice was bought by Arab merchants before being sold at a high price to Europeans. The nutmeg tree was then introduced in the West Indies during the French colonization.
In cooking, nutmeg is used to flavor vegetable preparations, in gratins and béchamel sauce.
In Martinique, the spice is used in the recipe of pastries such as sweet bread. Nutmeg is said to have many medical virtues, in particular to treat respiratory problems and rheumatism. It is also known to improve digestion.
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